Thanks! I have been reading quite a few articles about how Vitamin-C is the must-have ingredient in your skin products. You don’t have to spend long reading descriptions, benefit lists, and reviews in the New Directions Aromatics carrier oils section to decide that you need every single one of them, stat, and then they will solve all your problems and you will look like a Victoria’s Secret model for all time with no other effort. That’s like using chocolate syrup instead of chocolate chips in a chocolate chip cookie recipe because the chocolate chips will melt during the baking process… but we still need them to be solid later in the life of the cookie . Please note that nothing on this site has been designed or tested for large scale manufacturing or re-sale, and attempting to sell anything made from recipes on this website is a bit foolish and at your own risk. I have incredibly sensitive skin- I actually stopped using shampoo and conditioner and found out that it was the reason my acne was so bad. Perhaps you could make something simple, like a lip balm, using different plant based-waxes waxes to see how they compare to beeswax. ... Food supplements cannot substitute a balanced diet and a healthy kind of living. i love that coconut oil & cocoa butter have such great scents on their own for those who may not be able to use essential oils. Sick of the chemicals all around me and wanna go natural. That would give you more freedom to formulate with . Then you have a carrot oil (from the plant) that contains oodles of Vitamin A! It is a popular ingredient in bug repellents, and from what I understand, it smells absolutely awful (which is what makes the bugs stay away). I’ve noticed in your recipes you use different additives, such as benzoin. Thank you so much for being an absolute great resource of information and inspiration! There’s well over 550 recipes up here, with at least 3 deodorant recipes and 17 lotion recipes. I was wondering if you could make a post on the ‘vegan’ side of any ingredient. As I explain in the article, shea butter and coconut oil aren’t generally a good swap as they have drastically different melting points and textures. You can, for sure, but the notion of pouring $15 of argan oil down the drain when $0.50 of sunflower oil or fractionated coconut oil would do the same job makes me cringe! Please PLEASE make another informative article on essential oils, extracts, and all. This is so helpful!!! I’ve never worked with illipe butter, but from what I’ve read it is one of very few acceptable swaps with cocoa butter . Hi Marie, If you don’t like cocoa butter I’d just recommend using a lotion recipe that doesn’t call for it—I have lots , Thank you, Marie. Verzehrsempfehlung. Argan is wonderful, as is evening primrose oil and borage oil . Make it Up: The Essential Guide to DIY Makeup and Skin Care is now available at booksellers all over the world! From my research, navratna oil is a finished product, not the specific oil of a plant or animal. I love this. I can’t wait to try one. I am making a salve for eczema and it calls for neem oil. Really informative and well organized post. Beeswax, coconut oil and palm oil is produced here, while other carrier is imported. Thank you for making this new venture of mine very easy. One could just synthesize pure urea, for instance, in a lab… or one could harvest massive amounts of animal urine, isolate the urea from it, and then purify it. Hi I really enjoyed your article, very well informed and shows me how much I don’t know! It is also used as a substitute for oregano in the food trade. I have a couple of questions that I hope you could answer. These three carrier oils/butters are all very different, especially in the scent category! I am very fair and acne prone. Use it in your soap recipe at up to 33%. Hi Ayse! I am very new at this. Any suggestions? Coconut oil is, but from what I can tell coconut butter contains coconut solids… though it doesn’t really seem to be a product with a hard definition. It all depends on what you plan to use it for. Hmmm. Thank you very much for ALL of the information your site and you helps us out with. Before you go much further, be sure to read this guide very carefully. How do I know how much wax should I add? Check out this article for a basic guide I would caution you to be careful with unrefined hemp oil, though, as it can scorch at fairly low temperatures, and that’ll ruin the entire batch. I got your book and I’m wondering a sub for the coconut oil in the vegan lipstick, any suggestions? can I use olive oil or coconut oil instead of jojoba oil to make a lip scrub? What a great idea and so very helpful! As far as side effects, the omega 3 group actually experienced more. Honestly, that swap should not have caused a massive consistency change—it is much more likely to be something else. I found some recipes for it online and they were just shredded, dried coconut run through a blender, like peanut butter. However, I like how your bars are more vertical than horizontal and would love to know what size mold you use. The butter is perfect. Thanks! Sweet almond oil melts at -18°C, cocoa butter melts at 34°C. Mango butter and cupuacu butter are both good choices in most situations, though much more expensive . Borage oil is naturally high in GLA, which is an omega 6 fatty acid. First off, LOVE this article. Use it: Borage oil makes an excellent facial moisturizer, but it can also be used anywhere on the body or scalp. In terms of texture, coconut oil is smooth and oily; unrefined shea butter (USA / Canada) is thick, tacky, and sticky. If I cut back on the amount of coconut oil, would that work? You make the chemistry behind DIY much fun and tolerable to people like me. …, Parts are basically the opposite of percents, and is based on ratios. I have developed an allergy to beeswax. Thanks :-). You would think with everything else needing allergy labeling this information would be included with the carrier oils, but it isn’t. I’d toss it in the “special characteristics/healing” category, along with special consideration for the scent It’s also really slow to absorb. These patties sit on top of the bee frames and if it gets sunny with a warm spell it can get pretty warm in the hives. 2-3 Drops – Tea Tree Oil Borage oil has shown promise in clinical research for its benefits for rheumatoid arthritis, growth and development in premature infants, as well as improving the function of the lungs in those with respiratory issues. Like my blog? I’d say shea butter is a bit stickier as well, but other than that I’ve successfully used one for the other quite a lot recently. I have—have you done a search? But it came out super oily. There is zero guarantee I’ll ever make anything suggested to me. I find it very soothing for itchy skin . Hi Alexa! There’s a chart in the post . Now the weather is cooling down and it has harden and the minerals is rough on the lips on first application, and softer on second or third application, and the balm feels dry on application. An effective dose of GLA is 1.4 g/day. Do you have any suggestions on a soap or lotion(or both) that I could make that would help? Which oil can be used as an alternative oil for ‘Sweet Almond Oil’ ? Even oils that I know are nuts (hazelnut, macadamia for example) NDA has listed cautions as “none known”. I’m making some your recipes & still learning till now. Good to know, thank you! Hi – I love this post & your descriptions of varying consistencies, melting points, etc have proved helpful as I modify basic recipes to accommodate pregnancy, excema & even my coconut allergy. Is honey ok to mix with my dry ingredients and store without adding a preservative? You’re such an inspiration! The information provided on AromaWeb is for educational purposes only. When a recipe calls for an oil and makes a big deal out of its special features or scent, that generally means swapping it for something else is a no-go. Cera bellina is a modified beeswax (“the free fatty acids have been converted to polyglycerols esters“) that thickens oils and butters into very cool, glide-y oil gels. I’ve written an article on using lard & tallow in soap that should help you out here . Not all omega-6 fatty acids are the same. I’ve made many of your recipes with much success. I would not use neem oil in anything that wasn’t to repel insects, basically (or designed to take advantage of any of neem oil’s other benefits—it is said to be good for problematic skin conditions as well). I made a small lotion sample with equal amounts (roughly 1 tsp.) Hi, I’m glad you found it useful Be sure to check out my guide to essential oil substitutions as well! Is there a substitute that can be used in stead? Thanks, Sarah! In any event, this post provides you with ways to think about all oils so you can understand them and don’t need every oil to exist in a chart. Hi Ana! Carrier oils serve a variety of purposes. So…I don’t know how it will alter the salve! In addition to the benefits of an oil, sometimes a recipe will call for an oil because of its individual scent, the three most obvious ones being cocoa butter (smells like chocolate), virgin coconut oil (smells like coconuts), and beeswax (smells like honey). Can I use something in the place of Tea Tree Oil and Jojoba Oil? It’s more so for the recipes that call for that ingredient specifically. Love it! If you want to experiment with this sort of thing go ahead, just make sure everything is sealed off from additional moisture, label everything, and keep an eye on it to ensure nothing funky is going on . Smelling shea literally makes me ill. Could you tell me what it is & what it does? Yes, you can dilute essential oils in a lotion. As to your question… please don’t do that if you want to make lip balm You will end up with a liquid (coconut oil melts at 24°C and when combined with another liquid oil the final product is liquid unless your house is about 5°C), with gritty bits of cocoa powder sunk to the bottom, and a blob of honey floating on top (honey is water soluble and will not easily emulsify with oils, especially without a thickened to stabilize the emulsion). Thanks again for this well done article! GLA is a natural anti-inflammatory and Borage oil is actually higher in this compound than Evening Primrose Oil so is a worthy substitute for those already supplementing with Evening Primrose Oil for its anti-inflammatory benefits. I want to make your lemongrass & seaweed shampoo bar and was wondering what I could replace the lard with. Honey is also a humectant, though, so if it can attract enough water to itself there can eventually be enough water that some of it has some free time to go cause trouble. Thanks for your post! I want to use my essential oils as a spritz on my body. If I’m reading your charts properly, you’re saying it would be worth a try using babassu oil instead? , Hey Stephanie! However, I still find myself a little confused on how to properly incorporate some EOs into my daily “beauty” routine. Borage is a healthy plant with blue flowers which is grown commercially in order to extract oil … thank you , Olive oil would be the better alternative as it is liquid and has a similar consistency to jojoba . However, it is so prevalent in most recipes. Borage oil is a natural omega-6 fatty acid that is extracted and obtained from borage plant seeds. Love this! Substitute part of the shea butter portion (in the cream recipe) with borage oil … You did an awesome job describing the features of them and actually pointed out a really good fact about how one can’t really exchange shea butter for cocoa butter (something I’m guilty of lol). Thanks for all this great information! . If you want to make a lotion, an emulsifying wax would be a good choice Since it sounds like you’re relatively new to this I’d really recommend following a simple recipe first to see what you’re aiming for before venturing off on your own . * Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. Cocoa butter is MUCH harder than shea butter as you can see in the liquid/soft/brittle chart . If you enjoy making your own creams and lotions at home, you might benefit from adding borage oil to your base recipe. Someone gave me a recipe for spider veins but it called for 1/2 cup carrier oil (2 part shea butter 1 part coconut oil) Because I was thinking carrier oil I got shea oil instead. You also don’t have an emulsifier in there since you’re combing both oil and water. Hey! Available in 60-count softgels So… think peanut butter vs. peanut oil, I guess? However, my cousin is allergic to shea butter. It’s very similar to jojoba oil, but there are also a lot of other options here if you go through the questions at the end . GLA is present in evening primrose oil, another natural supplement you … Can I add Shea Butter on my sugar, coconut oil, almond oil to make a more creamy scrub? In a hair care recipe, is there a good substitute for flax seed oil? Borage is used for stomach pain, sore throat, intestinal regularization, as a diuretic, and as a hypotensive 1,8,3,9 I’ve been working on the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia; check there to see if the thing you’re curious about is listed , Also, I’d recommend giving this, this, and this a read , Hi Marie, It’s my dry face saviour (plus clay masks for weekly exfoliation). I’ll try one of these. Swifty Crafty Monkey has a great post on all the ins and outs . Jojoba oil gives very nice thickness to my cream but I want to substitute it by oil which gives similar thickness ( having reduced cost). Traditional uses. A russet potato worked fine. if you could make something and share the recipe would save me from some potential disaster, otherwise if you could help me regarding the carrot seed oil would be great, also, i noticed that in your Encyclopedia under allantoin you say “Blend it thoroughly it in the cool-down phase” but in some recipes you have added it to water phase, which one is correct? Within this oil is GLA, or gamma linolenic acid, which is the key reason that borage oil is an omega fatty acid powerhouse. Ive been trying to make lip balm and the recipe I was using calls for equal parts beeswax, coconut oil, and Shea butter. You need the beeswax especially to thicken it up and give you something solid, and the cocoa butter helps thicken it and gives a lovely texture and fragrance. Gram Conversions - Ingredients By Category. do you have info on it… what it is used for or how to use it or its properties, and uses. That said, they are both in the soft category, so you can try it, but the texture, scent (if using raw versions), and melting point of the final product will be quite different, especially if that ingredient makes up a large part of the recipe. You can definitely use it in lotions; here’s a good one! Hi Jessica! Flax seed oil spoils quite quickly due to its high omega content, I tend to save sunflower for lotions as it’s pretty plain and inexpensive, and I’ve bought walnut oil a couple times, but often leave it out of formulations due to nut allergies , Hi Serina! I am wanting to make a psoriasis cream from a rollerball recipe, 6 tbsp grapeseed oil equivalent to “?” in shea butter. I’ve made the experiment. So, when swapping out oils in a recipe where absorbency is important, ensure the replacement oil is pretty similar to the original in terms of absorption speed. Thank you for the work you put into this. Mango and cupuacu butters would be my top recommendations as a replacement for shea butter . Hey Caramelle! I have made your naked lip balm and would like it not so soft, as I’m going south. Thank you so much for this! Marie, You just saved my life! Hope that helps! A little veggie stock and a smidge of duck fat added to a heap of blanched borage (borage only needs about 30 seconds in salted boiling water to blanch, by the way), and, after sufficient buzzing, I had a nice green soup. Thanks for reading In my experience, the vast majority of cosmetic ingredients are vegan. I’ve just gone in and added a table and some more information about oils that absorb at different speeds, and how to learn more The only drying oil I know about is rosehip—it is a perfectly fine moisturizer, it is just called “drying” because it absorbs so quickly. Does your recipe contain at least 10% wax. I want to make a bar soap using navratna oil. Bothering me always “Is apricot kernel oil/sunflower oil/jojoba good for all skin type or only for mature skin/oily/dry skin?”, I’d say no, simply because carrier oil preferences can be so personal. Also known as adult acne, rosacea includes redness, itching and small bumps filled with pus. What would be a good substitute? 9. I’m looking for a good substitute for jojoba oil. This website participates in the Formula Botanica and Amazon affiliate programs; as an Amazon Associate, Humblebee & Me earns from qualifying purchases. Borage oil, black currant oil (and evening primrose oil) are natural sources of a fatty acid called GLA (gammalinolenic acid), an omega-6 fat that is very hard to come by in the diet. Borage is used for stomach pain, sore throat, intestinal regularization, as a diuretic, and as a hypotensive 1,8,3,9 Your blog is GREAT!! I’m so glad you’re finding this helpful Happy making! Hmmm… you could try thickening the coconut oil with a bit of beeswax, since you’re probably using the coconut oil for all its fantastic anti this & that benefits , I have no problems with glycerin in toothpaste—it’s a humectant, and it tastes sweet, which is always a bonus for anything that goes into your mouth . If you want to make the balm harder I’d reduce the liquid oil and increase the wax by an equal amount to keep the recipe in balance. What was the oil to water ratio in your lotion? Thanks so much….love all your posts and help. Hi Marie, On my second attempt I used Olive oil, Sweet Almond oil and a little Castor oil. I want to make your Hair Balm, but out of Jojoba Oil. Or should I stick to my original blend ? When it comes to beeswax/borax emulsions (aka old fashioned cold creams) they are always going to be much heavier than lotions made with more modern emulsifiers. Hi Marie. And here I am, bumped to your article. Carrier oils are loaded with great fats that make your skin happy. I managed to make a scaled down batch of naked salve and found out that the amount of cocoa butter that I substituted in does make it softer. I’ve found there are far too many variables when working with volume to do the same . Coconut oil and shea butter are really very different, as I discuss in this entry. The salves will be for Christmas presents – that’s why i’m basing it on such a large batch. This is exactly the information I needed right now. If i will be melting the coconut oil, is it okay to substitute with olive oil? Another question that’s unrelated to this post (I figured I would just ask anyway since I am already asking something. Sweet almond oil is a liquid oil with an average absorption speed, so any other liquid oil with an average absorption speed will work. After that, try the recipe in small batches with the swap and see what you think! Thanks, Norma! From my quick googling it sounds like colza oil is more or less canola oil I have used canola oil in soap with good results, but I know some people have reported quick DOS-ing with it. I understand that you use cold process. Great blog you have! Have you checked out some of my body oil and cleansing oil formulations for ideas? Hope that helps! In my experience you are really going to want some wax in your lip balm—waxes are what give the balm staying power in such a “high traffic” area as the lips. GLA is a natural anti-inflammatory and Borage oil is actually higher in this compound than Evening Primrose Oil so is a worthy substitute for those already supplementing with Evening Primrose Oil for its anti-inflammatory benefits. I love the recipes just not that specific ingredient lol, You can also look it up in the encyclopedia for other ideas . These two things are pretty closely tied, so I’m grouping them together. There really aren’t any carrier oils I wouldn’t use around my eyes, though some will be better suited than others. i considered buying mango butter for making lotion bars, because i heard mango butter doesn’t have much of an odor, but it was pricier so i decided for the shea butter instead. I tried it again but with less Shea butter and a little more wax and it was still very oily. I do not see Neem oil here… where would it fall? If you have and requests for new entries I would love to hear them . I’m thrilled to hear it, Susan Enjoy all all your new DIY concoctions! I’ve never worked with it, I have no intentions of doing so (though it will be legal here in Canada fairly soon), and I really can’t tell you anything about working with it—sorry. As I’m sure you know, a coconut allergy is an incredibly difficult thing to navigate, and researching coconut-free substitutions for things made from coconuts could be a full-time job :/ Here’s a copy/paste reply I wrote up for another reader with the same allergy (plus a sulphate allergy): “I’ve been thinking about this a lot, and I think a coconut allergy in cosmetics is comparable to a gluten allergy/celiac in food. The term “carrier oil” encompasses hundreds of different oils and butters. by Marie | Jun 23, 2013 | Articles, Essential Reading, Featured Posts, Quick Guides | 302 comments. Flaxseed oil contains alpha linolenic acid, ALA, an omega-3 fatty acid that can be converted into eicosapentaenoic acid, or EPA, in the body. Yatin, Check out the encyclopedia entry on jojoba for information on substitutions . Thanks, Erica! Do you think it depends also on the nature and the quantity of the fatty acids? 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